Since I wanted to add fullness to the back and sides, but not the front, I decided not to have the godets go all of the way around. Laurieskeepsakes This layer was also made using Casa Organza. Just keep in mind, the top, bottom, and armhole seams have not yet been stitched, so the seam allowance is still present. This is a step that a lot of people may skip. historyofagirl Ad from shop AMODERNEVINTAGE I used a skewer to make sure the boning was all of the way inserted. Absolutely! Under Add your personalization, the text box will tell you what the seller needs to know. A note on making your own patterns, I have found that there are little discrepancies that occur when making your own patterns. Be confident in your purchase before ordering. I placed the binding right side down on the right side of the bodice along all of the edges. Something else I did this timeI cant remember where I saw it but it is such a great idea! If you dont think you can draw the seam allowance accurately without a ruler, or you plan to use the pattern multiple times, I definitely recommend adding one. I smoothed out the curves and eliminated all of the jagged lines. It is important to keep an accurate seam allowance. dreamdate Altogether, the second layer of the petticoat took about 7.5 yards of fabric. I have heard from other corset makers that the Plasti Dip tipped bones are fine to dry clean, but I have never done so, and I would definitely check with the dry cleaner to make sure it is okay. This one had been out of commission for a while, but it was my shape. However, since I dont know if it is still available I will just use what I have. However, you do lose a bit of the fullness that was present from just gathering. All 6 sections were serged together to create a wide skirt. I actually love this. I usually use a 1/2 inch seam allowance. I had to clip the curves of the seam allowance around very rounded places such as the bust. Evie hererealized the Layer 4 godets were great fun, and decided to take a swim in them. The size of the godets can vary based on the size of your petticoat. So, my dress will have cap sleeves which will be hidden under the collar, hence the necklines shown. From shop Rabiosa, ad by TheSlipDrawer Plugging in 47 inches for the radius I was able to determine that the circumference of the circle is approximately 300 inches. If you are using sheers, it helps to layer the fabrics before hand to see what they will look like. 44 inch width. This required an additional 7 yards of fabric. It takes some time to make sure the casings lay flat over very curved sections. You can see the before and after pictures below. This is one of my favorite steps in the dressmaking process. Pressing makes all the difference in the appearance of your final garment. The petticoat layers are finished! I chose the steel boning because of the great structure it provides. I was pretty pleased with how they turned out. If you are purchasing your boning you will notice that some types of boning comes in the casing already. This was very visible on the shoulder seams. ZimmergirlzBazaar With right sides together I aligned two godets along one side, beginning at the peaks. Raising it up higher will help eliminate this. I added two layers all of the way around, plus a few strips and ovals in between the two layers to widen the hips, pad the belly,and shorten the waist. Once the lace was on place I played with different swoop sizes at the bottom of the lace to give the Belle effect to the dress. Ad from shop AllTheRageVintageCA As I mentioned before, I am pear shaped, so the top of the dress form was perfect, but my hips and waist are quite a bit larger. From shop hkvintage, ad by dreamdateplus tvpstore Next, I need to bind the lower edge, add trims and my corset will be done. It took quite some time to do all of the gathering, but I think it was worth it. Eventually, all of these sections will be sewn together and then attached to the bottom overlay section from the first layer of the petticoat. The organza was not wide enough to cut the whole circle skirt, so I cut it in two sections, front and back. A note on serging. Ad from shop VintageCraftTreasure In reality, the fabric had just been folded, and the line was supposed to be straight. I used a fat quarter of the satin fabric and drew lines along the bias 1 5/8 inches apart to make a continuous binding strip. I wanted to see how the swoops of lace would lay differently if there was a slit in the lace verses simply having the fabric gathered. Etsy is powered by 100% renewable electricity. Next, I went to work making the pattern for the godets. Since my dress will be Belle I wanted to have a bit more of a bell shape to the skirt. Next, lets begin with the swoops of lace. FREE shipping, ad by madameEvintage (I might choose the crinkle sheer if I had to choose again. Using the formula Radius = Circumference 6.28, I was able to determine that the radius for my waist was 4.75 inches. Ruffle: Cut 10 Rectangles, 10 in x Width of Fabric. To bring in the waist I created pleats, similar to what I did when draping the fabric. I use a metal file to sand down the sharp corners of the cut boning. So, I made a slight adjustment. TheLilyBirdStudio Ad from shop dreamdateplus I doubled this for my ruffle. Circumference = 6.28 x Radius. The final tier is a ruffle composed of twelve 8 inch by width of fabric rectangles. madameEvintage I used a sharpie to label the boning placement. Its also home to a whole host of one-of-a-kind items made with love and extraordinary care. Also, they DO NOT ACCEPT RETURNS! I am hoping that the majority will go away once the grommets have been inserted and the back is laced tightly. From shop Starbriteseller, ad by YourTurnVintageStore Ad from shop SewJoyfulness With the sleeves attached the bodice is close to finished. I have found that if you have a lot of experienceusing store bought patterns you can predict how edges should be aligned, even if it isnt cut perfectly. My middle school students have been able to successfully cut and tip their own metal boning. I draped the circle over my dress form to make sure it was the right length. In my bodice I will be using a combination of flat steel boning, the white you see below, and spiral steel boning. The jacquard was reinforced with Pellon SF101 fusible interfacing. At each 18 inchmark I cut a 6 inch vertical slitand marked 6 inches straight above that. Learn more. The most common places to add bones are along the seams and at the center back. Plastic boning is lightweight, flexible, affordable, easy to find, easy to cut, and often comes in the casing. Be sure to make note of the grainline of the muslin and keep it vertical on the dress form. After the batting was in place. If you are not comfortable making your own pattern or if you dont have a dress form, store bought patterns can work just great! Since I prefer pleats rather than gathers I pinned the lace in pleats around the waist to see what fullness I could achieve. Dont worry, I will keep it as simple as possible and try to make the calculations clear. (14 in the back). I actually do that all of the time, Ill go through my store bought patterns and select bits and pieces from different patterns and put them together to create my own unique garment. I left 9 inches open at the top for the center back opening, and the bottom 6 inches open for the draped swoops of fabric. Next, I cut out the bodice from both the canvas and the reinforced satin. Carefully, aligning seams and edges I pinned all of the way around the bodice connecting the two layers with wrong sides together. I will hem them to the correct length later. Since I added the bustle, this brought up the back edge of the hoop. If I had to do so again, I would give myself a few more inches of leeway in the seam allowances. ad by VintageCraftTreasure I placed the ruffled layer inside the circle skirts, aligned the center front, and pinned all four layers together at the waist. From shop LaceandlinenDesigns, ad by dreamdate From shop TheLilyBirdStudio, ad by Starbriteseller One rectangle used per ruffle. VictorianAmbiance Ad from shop ChameleonCreations You need to have a channel for the bones to slide into. As you can see, this changed the positioning of my hoop SIGNIFICANTLY! You can see the basic shape of the dress form, but the lines are jagged and crooked. So, it can be done! Before inserting your boning, you need to determine what type of boning is best for you. There are a few simple ways to compensate for this. WYLDESYDEVINTAGE Next, I pinned the elastic in place underneath the waistband section on the pillow. I finished the non-hem edge to help prevent fraying as I worked with the gathers. To complete the first layer of the petticoat I wanted to add two ruffles to the bottom of the overlay. Its still a little rumpled, but its a bodice! But that is definitely personal preference. The next section is riddled with math! Up next was gathering the ruffle. Shipping policies vary, but many of our sellers offer free shipping when you purchase from them. From shop jantiques, ad by DenisePieracci So, I decided to make a cover. Then I begin to pin the muslin into the desired shape, taking care to make sure the seams are as smooth as possible, and placed in flattering and easily maneuverable areas. I didnt really measure, so this took a little playing with, but in the end I was happy with the results. The image only shows a few of the triangles pinned in place. Finally, after attaching the ruffles I serged along the two straight sides to finish the raw edges. For example, if my pleats were 1.5 inches long, they would overlap the previous pleat by about1 inch or a touch more. I purchased the tape, and a lot of my draping and pattern making supplies, from pgm. Ruffle: Cut 5 Rectangles, 26in x Width of Fabric. Joann+ (Had to purchase 20 + yards for this price). While many of the items on Etsy are handmade, youll also find craft supplies, digital items, and more. (Keep in mind, corset patterns may be a bit small since they are often meant to suck you in.). It gives a nice iridescent effect without looking cheap or over the top. Next, it was time to add the boning. So, I decided to add some additional godets. That said, it offers the least amount of structure. Below, the seam allowance line is in red. One and a half rectangles used per ruffle. Use design rulers to smooth the lines. This happened on this pattern on the side front piece. Sometimes the rulers will fit a curve beautifully! And here is all twelve! Having the godets side by side allowed me to find where they would naturally meet when lying flat against the first layer of the petticoat. You will be a lot happier with the result if you do! Once both pieces had been cut I serged the sides together. 56 inch almost circle skirt in Glitterbug White Pearlized Sheer. You may notice at this point that the bodice is smaller than expected. From shop AllTheRageVintageCA, Sale Price $11.80 If you are working on your own project, you may want a calculator handy as you do these steps. I think they will be comfortable. ArtEmbroideryDesigns First I measured the hoop, circumference, length, and length between hoops. Before starting I gave the bodice a good press using a press cloth. I like the look of the Plasti Dip. I repeated this process for both the front and the back of the skirt. Finally, it is time to remove the muslin! One thing that I noticed occurred on this layer, was that the front end of the petticoat began to poke out. I thought I would be satisfied without one, but after consideration I determined that I wanted one after all. I started by marking off 18 inch sections along the bottom edge. From the shoulder line I continued on to shape the back neck line. This is quite a sturdy bodice, and I am pleased with how it turned out. One and a half rectangles used per ruffle. From shop Laurieskeepsakes, ad by Petticoatparade Found something you love but want to make it even more uniquely you? Before I remove the muslin I like to label each piece: front, side front, side, etc. I find this is particularly important in places such as under the arms, where you dont want a lot of unnecessary bulk. I was able to finish the corset last weekend! I used coutil with an overlay of Ivory Rose Jacquard for the corset. Since the designs of the two dresses are so similar, the difference between the two construction wise will be slight. The majority of the construction is complete we still need to add grommets for lacing, and modesty panels. I pinned it to the bodice to see how it would look. It wasnt part of the shoulder curve at all. I finished both edges of the ruffle (hem and opposite side) using a narrow hem on my serger. The Plasti Dip made the bones a bit hard to slide so I covered the end with just a small bit of PTFE tape. I pinned my godets in place to seewhere they would look best. After cutting I had lace that was 5 yards by 40 inches. Next I attached the godets to the ruffles on the serger. It is worth it to take the time to do this, especially if the satin is really light weight. I used a long doll needle to make the work faster. To compensate for that I decided to make the Layer 5 ruffle 9 tall instead of 12. I used the split panel for the center back. As I wanted the hoop separate from the petticoat so I could wear it with other costumes, I did not attach the fabric to it. Coutil would probably be a better choice than duck canvas if you can find it and dont mind the price tag, but I was definitely shopping on a budget and I have found that the canvas works well for me. This will be the cut line for my fabric. Overall, I think Layer 5 was a success. We will have to wait to see what it looks like on the petticoat. (LogOut/ The elastic slid in easily, and it lays well. Therefore, if you prefer you can always pin one at a time, and then sew, so you dont have to worry about all of the pins. I folded the lace in half with right sides together. Ad from shop OnceUponAStitchStore This is a few inches longer than I actually need, but since this part of the skirt will be visible on the outside of the final dress, I didnt want to chance accidentally cutting it too short. In the end, doing this process separately worked best for me.). Stitch on the first and third lines, not the halfway point. As Traybuff mentioned in one of her youtube videos, there can be quite a bit of stretch along the bias, and I didnt want to have to worry about the petticoat falling out of shape. I have found that binding creates a much better result than sewing the lining to the main fabric and flipping it, which I have done with poor results in the past. From shop VintagePatternsCo1, ad by jantiques Why am I telling you this? Yes! From shop ArtEmbroideryDesigns, ad by CountryHeartVintage The sleeve was a little fuller and longer than I wanted so I marked out the middle section. I then aligned those serged edges with the serged edges of the petticoat waist and pinned them together. (This would be a good time to correct any errors.). I think this could have been prevented if I had taken more measurements at the beginning. To create the circle skirt I used the measurements I collected. I then used tape to mark the sleeve holes. I chose to use fusible interfacing. I chose to use their Casa Organza fabric. Next, I pinned the casings over each seam. I used a heat erase pen to mark the center, arm holes,and pin placement. The corset will be worn under the petticoat. I decided to add another layer to the understirt that was a traditional tiered petticoat. Binding really does make a difference in the look of the finished edges. When I began this project I wasnt planning to add a bustle. Youll probably want to have a pressing ham and press cloth handy. I think it would be easier. It probably would have been better if I had 7 or 8 sections, but I dont think it made a big enough difference for me to go out and purchase more fabric. FREE shipping, ad by UpCycleCRAFTreasures I found this out the hard way. You just have to be careful not to sew over it with your machine. (Speaking of the sleeves. After stitching the binding in place with a little less than a 1/2 inch seam, I folded it toward the lining side of the bodice, folding the raw edge of the binding over the raw edge of the seam. All other godets were sewn together 3.5 inches from the tips. I find it helpful to be careful regarding the intersection of seams. From shop dreamdate, ad by ChameleonCreations From shop tvpstore, ad by IndigoRoseandCo Evie wanted to help. There is a lingerie hook at one end. Once The lines were nice I traced the shape onto Swedish Tracing Paper so that I can use it again in the future if I need to. I marked 9 inched down from the top edge (the scalloped finished edge of the lace is the bottom), and 6 inches up from the bottom, and pinned in between. With the 3 underskirts constructed I wanted to see what they looked like over top of the petticoat. Its a good think I have Neflix! As a result, my first step was to put the yellow circle skirts, and the yellow gathered petticoat layer together. This layer is constructed differently than the previous layers. ritzyvintagefinds It is important to mark key locations such as the center front, waistline, joining points, etc. Since the lining will be so heavy, the satin needs to be reinforced to add structure. The first thing I did was to stitch across the bottom of each casing with a 5/8 inch seam allowance. The godets are larger in size but fewer in number for Layers 3 and 4. This was the first time I had ever used a busk in a corset, and it was a lot of fun to use. I stitched the seams to fit by hand. The crinkle pearlized sheer by Glitterbug at JoAnn is not quiet so sheer and also adds a nice look. From shop SewJoyfulness, ad by maybel57 From shop TheTextileTrunk, $155.00 Ad from shop jantiques Please. Folding the rectangle in half (creating a double layer 13 x 300 rectangle, I gathered the folded edge. It is good to note, that a bodice has a left and right side that are mirror images in most cases. I added this length to the measurements needed for the skirt to create my cut pattern. I used this radius to determine the length of ruffles needed. Ad from shop Laurieskeepsakes FREE shipping, ad by LeftHandSaber Yes, quite the project. I pieced the bodice together, inserted a busk, added grommets, and bound the top. I cant wait to use it. Find out more in our Cookies & Similar Technologies Policy. When in doubt I prefer to make the bodice a little longer rather than shorter. Ad from shop tvpstore If I was to make it again I would shorten the side front pieces a bit to help compensate for that. Its a clever method to cut back on fabric. Ad from shop VictorianAmbiance Each section has a radius of 56 inches and was cut so that the arc at the bottom of the skirt extended all of the way across the 44 inch fabric. There was an indent from the top on the pin line near the shoulder, my brain thinking it was part of the shoulder curve, curved the edge. Keep an eye out for my next post, where we will talk about adding boning channels and boning to the bodice. The third tier is composed of six 16 inch by width of fabric rectangles. dreamdateplus Once I have the seams pinned the way I like, I start to play with the edges. Fabric used: Casa Organza White. This catalogs all of the settings I use for different fabrics and functions. This will give me a reference to where the closing seam will be. When I tried it on myself I noticed that the neck was a bit high, so I may have to adjust that later. I anticipate to use 40+ yards just for the petticoat. The lace is now attached to the skirt! Once they were secure I did two rows of gathering stitches along the top curve. I measured 9 inches down the center back and stitched 2 rows of stitching about 3/16 inches apart along that center line. VintagePatternsCo1 I started by making sure the shoulder lines matched up. Ive made a deadline for myself on this project, so to save time I fused the interfacing to a large piece of the satin prior to cutting out the pieces. First, I positioned the ring of godets around the petticoat and pinned them in place. VintageCraftTreasure At the other I added a few inches so I could fold it over and sew vertical divisions along the folded area. Depending on the circumference of your petticoat, and the fullness you want in your skirt, a circle skirt may or may not be large enough for you. At this point I was pretty content with the progress of my pattern, so it was time to mark the seams. This was mostly because my dog was sitting on my lap and didnt want to move. Ad from shop Starbriteseller I folded the sleeve in half and connected them at the under arm. Ad from shop IndigoRoseandCo Ad from shop VintagePatternsCo1 I teach a sewing class, and this year one of my students wanted to make a princess dress. There ended up being nine swoops around the width of the skirt. It was purchased in store during a 70% off sale. From shop AMODERNEVINTAGE, $376.32 To review making the petticoat I thought it might be helpful to summarize the dimensions and amount of fabric used. You would also do the armholes if you have a sleeveless bodice. It might be nice to have dress form covers in different colors, depending on what project I am working on. I removed the ruffled circle skirt and went back to the drawing board. I used two rows of stitching for added strength. The sky is the limit! These layers will be placed higher up on the petticoat. The top edges didnt line up perfectly due to the thickness of the seam allowance when turning, but they still worked great. The only thing I didnt want was the little pleats at the edge. Fabric used: Glitterbug White Pearlized Sheer. Ad from shop historyofagirl Using the same method I used for the bustle, I created an elastic waistband and slid it through the channel. Now that the first layer of the petticoat is complete it is time to work on the second layer! We've sent you an email to confirm your subscription. That way all of the boning seams are on hidden on the lining and are not visible on the outside of the bodice. This took a bit of planning. Etsys 100% renewable electricity commitment includes the electricity used by the data centers that host Etsy.com, the Sell on Etsy app, and the Etsy app, as well as the electricity that powers Etsys global offices and employees working remotely from home in the US. I definitely like the shape after adding Layer 4.5 with the back godets. Using a straight stitch I then sewed the top of the godets to the first layer of the petticoat. I am not great at draping sleeves, so I started by drafting a simple sleeve pattern. Overall, I feel like I get a better fit, with fewer adjustments being necessary. So, my solutionmaking a Belle dress! I started with 5 yards of JoAnns Casa Collection 58 lace in Ochre. Since I want the binding to be hidden on the inside of the garment, I will be using single fold bias strips. Then I stitched it closed, creating a smaller sleeve. Since I was not sure how much lace I would need I started by simply draping the lace over the underskirt. I clipped the curves and trimmed most of the seams by about 1/8 inch as I did this. The lines that are drawn when tracing the pins are often rough and jagged. hkvintage My goal with this step was to save time. Thank goodness she is cute, since she isnt terribly helpful! DenisePieracci Time for pressing! I stitched the pleats in place in sections using a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Draping is a process used to create your own garment pattern. I divided the circumference into 3 sections that could be pieced together. The Layer 3 godets were added in the same manner as the Layer 2, except, due to the bustle, the back godets are lower on the petticoat than those on the front. By fusing first you only have to cut once instead of twice. Ad from shop CountryHeartVintage Ad from shop ZimmergirlzBazaar Even if the tape is sufficient, the Plasti Dip makes me feel like the bones are more securely tipped. So, I needed 600 inches of ruffles for this layer of the petticoat. Tracking the information is so beneficial. Next up, adding sleeves. I serged using woolly nylon thread in the looper. I also drew out the circle for the waist and cut them out. It is bold, which gives great lines, and it is easy to move until you decide on a final position. So, if you dont want to use interfacing, interlining is also a great option. As a result, I decided to stay stitch four lines on the godets. Ad from shop Petticoatparade Instead I would use two strips for the back edges and one for the top and one for the bottom. This probably could have been avoided if I had made the hoop myself, but since I chose not to, I felt like this was something I needed to correct. The waist was a little big, but I plan to gather the top edge when inserting the waistband later. It worked great! One and a half rectangles were sewn together to create a 90 inch ruffle for the bottom of each godet. Not the corners. Needless to say, creating the new godets was slow going, but I liked the result. Do this for all seams. Next, I removed the godets from the hoop so they could be assembled together. It can pull away from the fabric and sometimes causes puckering. I am very glad I did! The curves were gentle and easy to align. To make the bustle I used some scrap crepeback satin that I had, and non-roll waistband elastic. I then hand stitched the sides in place connecting this new layer to layer 4 so they would stay in place. The result was not perfect, but I was much happier with the overall shape. Ruffle: Cut 9 Rectangles, 16 in x Width of Fabric. If you were creating a Cinderella dress, you would now be ready to add a waistband and/or move on to the overskirt. I tried purchasing a kit that contained foam pieces and a cover, but it didnt work for my shape, and didnt look great. Ruffle: Cut 18 Rectangles, 13in x Width of Fabric. With right sides together, I stitched two of the sleeve pieces together at the bottom. It is available on Etsy and is the pattern that Alison Smith uses in her Craftsy Class on Sewing Corsets. I began by using 1/8 inch draping tape to create possible necklines. I cut out 4 sleeve pieces from the satin, 2 for the exterior sleeve, and 2 for lining. The second layer of the petticoat is complete. So, dont force it. As I was beginning this process, I decided I wanted all of the yellow layers of the skirt to be connected, and all of the white to be separate, so I could wear the white petticoat with other things. I like to simply use a ballpoint pen for this, but others prefer pencils or other marking tools. This could be a section where the fabric was folded, or the pin was in at an odd angle when draping, and for some reason when I connect the lines it ends up an odd shape. This required making 4 more godets than planned. I think it prevented the drop off problem I was having previously. While I could usually adapt my pattern to plan for this, it was a complication I would prefer not to have to deal with consistently. Using a ready made hoop purchased on Amazon, such as this one, I went to work. I also pinched this top edge together and stitched again about 3/4 inch away from the edge. Since I am making my own pattern I hope my newly fitted dress form will help me with this process! Then I measured 6.5 inches down from that peak and sewed from there to the bottom of the ruffle. Why didnt I think of it years ago? Hooray! The yardage used is approximate. We do this with marketing and advertising partners (who may have their own information theyve collected). The stay stitching seemed to work well, and when I serged later, it definitely helped the godets hold their shape and prevent excessive ruffling. To compensate, I had to unpick and drop down the godets along the back side of the skirt a few inches. The result is the image from the previous post. I tried to align the side and back seams of the batting with the seams on the dress form.