Children:Free until 5 years (with parents ). Discover Cinque Terre's natural beauty from Rio Maggiore to Manarola and Corniglia and finally Monterosso and Vernazza - all from the special vantage point of your private boat on the sea. Towns like Portofino and Rapallo intimidate visitors with exquisite, crystalline beauty, snooty elegance and sky-high prices. Sure enough, on the main street through the old center of town, two rival gelaterie stood next to each other. How to Travel Economically as a Single Person to Hawaii, Medioimages/Photodisc/Photodisc/Getty Images. Operating period 2022 One woman literally screamed at her on the main street: I was listed seventh last year, and now Im listed ninth! This website uses Google Analytics to collect anonymous information such as the number of visitors to the site, and the most popular pages. September: mondays wednesdays fridays. World traveler, professional writer and consummate gardener, Spengler earned a BA from U.C. Maximum for 10 people, Please select date, time, language and number of participants in They are professional chauffeurs fully licensed for the commercial transportation of people (NCC), they are reliable, informative and English-speaking. But Alberto chased after me. What are the travel restrictions in Cinque Terre? Hes just a very, very, very concernedcitizen. Scanning the flavors in this new interloper, the many skirmishes of the gelato wars become clear. Since the lines operate on odd schedules, review the online interactive map before you go. (This sounds like a no-brainer, but its remarkable how many people decide to clump along the middle of the platform.) Easy: Albertos. The boat will stop 1 h and half in Vernazza or Riomaggiore (depending on the availability of the mooring docks) and Stop 3 hours in Monterosso enough time for a swim, lunch and a visit of the town . People pushed and pulled their travel partners into the tiny alcoves by the doors. August: mondays wednesdays fridays I will not be drawn into Gelatogate. You can spend a couple of hours prowling its sun-drenched waterfront, hiking to fortifiedchurches at the jagged edges of town, and enjoying the great views over the Gulf of Poets (where Lord Byron once famously went for a swim, despite local warnings that the waters here were far toodangerous). You understand? Santa Margherita Ligure to Cinque Terre train services, operated by Trenitalia, arrive at Corniglia station. But then, when I have one foot out the door, like a coiled cobra he strikes. Private Tours Shore Excursions Car Transfers. Trenitalia offers national rail connections in Italy as well as international connections to Austria, France, Germany and Switzerland. CITRA011024-LT-0236 THE TERRACE: tranquility, breathtaking view and garden, Santa Margherita Ligure to Milan Malpensa Airport MXP, Santa Margherita Ligure to San Michele di Pagana, Santa Margherita Ligure to Milan Linate Airport LIN, Santa Margherita Ligure to Desenzano del Garda, Santa Margherita Ligure to Cavi di Lavagna, Santa Margherita Ligure to Hotel Ravelli Mezzana, Santa Margherita Ligure to Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Santa Margherita Ligure to Ibiza Airport IBZ, Santa Margherita Ligure to Basel Badischer Bahnhof, Santa Margherita Ligure to Hotel Maggiore Moneglia Liguria Italy, Santa Margherita Ligure to Monterosso Liguria Italy, Firenze Campo di Marte Station to Cinque Terre, Hotel Margherita Monterosso al Mare Liguria Italy to Cinque Terre, Ponte Vecchio Tuscany Italy to Cinque Terre, There is a social distancing requirement of 1.5 metres, FFP2 masks are required on all public transport. Pooosh in. Curious and ready for a snack I dropped in at the gelateria that we recommend in the book. info@kissfromitaly.com, Subscribe to our monthly newsletter to receive up-to-date news about travelling to Italy and information on travel deals, Private experiences that can be fully customized based on your needs, A limited selection of high quality small group tours, Exclusive private transfers from airport, port or between cities, Multi-day tours with accomodation included, Private Tours in Venice, Cinque Terra, Florence, Theme: Anytime a researcher is dispatched to the Cinque Terre, Enough with the Cinque Terre. Now Here Are Some Riviera Townsnear the Cinque Terre, theres basically nothing we can do to police them, stuck on a cruise ship in a North Sea storm, Ive Been in Your Hotel Room: A Day in the Life of a Guidebook Writer. Thats because most cruise passengers come to the five villages on package excursions. And the laundry drying from windows overlooking the harbor remind me that its not just Ferragamo,Gucci, and Clooney who keep an address here. Escape to alternative trails and towns. The national COVID-19 helpline number in Cinque Terre is 1500. Yes - Frecce services include a power socket for each seat. All the listed villages are easily reachable by car, the driver will drop-off/pick-up very close to the pedestrian area of each village. 0185.284670, The office is open: from monday to friday h. 9.00 12.00 am / h. 2 5 pm. As Rick says in our Italy guidebook: Come to the Cinque Terre. Heading to Europe? If you get wind that itll be a busy cruise day, consider simply getting out of town. Albertos shop has a delicious honey flavor, which we recommend in the book. The fastest way to get from Santa Margherita Ligure to Cinque Terre is to taxi which takes 1h 14m and costs $100-$130. It operates a hostel as well as renting out rooms and apartments around town. meh, not so much. She currently divides her life between San Francisco and southwestern France. On this trip, I had a similar experience. The Cinque Terre five charming, traffic-free villages on the Italian Riviera is a delightful place to be on vacation. If you are coming to the Cinque Terre on a cruise, do yourself (and the rest of us) a favor, and instead take a side-trip to Pisa and Lucca which are totally enjoyable in their own rightand far more capable of dealing with big crowds. Finally, heres what Ill say to people coming on a cruise: Look, I get it. Maximum for 6 people, Upgrade to 46 ft motor yacht for extra space, speed and comfort. No, I really cant. Please enable Strictly Necessary Cookies first so that we can save your preferences! The natives sometimes wage aggressive campaigns to get listed in the book (or get someone else un-listed). This shop, too, has a honey flavor. And there she was, right where Id left her. The real problem on the platforms are the groups, which attempt to jam 40 or 50 people into a train all at once. First off, these are teensy villages (just a few hundred residents apiece)each one with its own small-town politics, grudges, and allegiancesand very long memories. Piazza Mazzini, 33 A
Cmon, I dare youdive into the rest of the Riviera. But at least I get to leave town. When I mentioned this to local friends, they confirmed that this happens from time to time. Clearly, the gelato situation in Corniglia is a Big Deal. Such as the time I was stuck on a cruise ship in a North Sea storm. Rome2rio uses cookies to help personalize content and show you personalised ads. Sestri Levante is a striking beach town on a crescent-shaped peninsula. The best way to get from Santa Margherita Ligure to Cinque Terre without a car is to train which takes 1h 24m and costs $4-$9. Nobody was home, and my phone didnt work. You have a responsibility to stop them., I walked past the other shops window. Be careful on the train platforms. After lunch meet your driver and head back to Portofino, before leaving the 5 Terre, dont miss a ride along the panoramic road that offers many photo-opportunities of really breathtaking views of the villages from up high. In Vernazza, my phone only worked when I was standing out on the breakwater. Ive saved the gelato for last partly to forestall further conflict, and partly to treat myself before the train ride home. Its the kind of place that makes you want to settle into an Italian Riviera beach vacation. She never went back.). And the most intense conflict Ive stumbled into anywhere involves of all things gelato. Dont miss walking the old main street that ends right by the church beside which there is the very interesting Oratorio Mortis et Orationis decorated by mysterious sculptures. I managed to escape that trip without any more conflictbut I could never forget the gelato controversy that raged in little Corniglia. Life in this small and lovely fishing town centers on the palm-lined waterfront, with its white-pebble beach and jaunty line of docks and marinas. Just pooosh your way in. Naturally they are even able to advise a restaurant or simply ensure that guests get out of their trip whatever you are looking for, fun, culture, sights, landscapes, shopping etc. Select an option below to see step-by-step directions and to compare ticket prices and travel times in Rome2rio's travel planner. Feel free to add extra services like wine tasting, meal, boat tour, etc. Line 1: Rapallo, S. Margherita Ligure, Portofino, San Fruttuoso, Line 2: Sestri Levante, Lavagna, Chiavari, Portofino, San Fruttuoso, Line 2 bis: DEIVA MARINA MONEGLIA SAN FRUTTUOSO PORTOFINO, Line 3: Santa Margherita Ligure, Rapallo, Chiavari, Lavagna, Sestri Lavagna / Porto Venere e Cinque Terre (Monterosso) (all day), Line 4: Santa Margherita Ligure, Rapallo Super Cinque Terre (all day), Line 5: Chiavari, Lavagna, Sestri Levante Super Cinque Terre (all day), Sailing in the Tigullio Gulf: Portofino and San Fruttuoso, Sailing between the two Gulfs: Portofino and Camogli. Its the best one. The Cinque Terre National Park is a protected area inducted as Italy's first national park in 1999. The cheapest way to get from Santa Margherita Ligure to Cinque Terre is to line 798 bus and train which costs $3-$8 and takes 2h 46m. The office is open: from monday to friday h. 9.00 12.00 am / h. 2 5 pm She didnt tick any of these three boxes, so she wasnt going in the book, period. The train was full. Should You Still Go to Poland? Somehow, all of this little towns frustrations, conflicts, and grudges, dating back many generations, have boiled down to these two little neighboring shops. (Just be clear on the sunset time and how long the hike will take the trails are not lit and can be treacherous after dark.). Its a glorious place that should, by all means, be visited. - to help you get the most out of your next trip. I was warmly greeted by Alberto, who couldnt be more excited by my visit. Shed been waiting for me all day long. On request, we set up a version of the itinerary matching your needs. I will do my work and leaveas quickly as possible. Listen, he said, conspiratorially. Cookie information is stored in your browser and performs functions such as recognising you when you return to our website and helping our team to understand which sections of the website you find most interesting and useful. Shoulder season April and October can be a great time to visit (cooler temperatures for hiking, though its typically too cold to swim)but be warned that good-weather holiday weekends (Easter, Italian Liberation Day on April 25) can bring peak-season crowds. Upon arrival inMonterosso, you will be dropped off very close to the pedestrian area, enjoy a lovely stroll along the walkway by the sea towards the old village. E-mail information:infotraghetti@traghettiportofino.it
The restauranteur is warm and gregarious. Other times, theyre in the next town and want to make plans to meet tomorrowwhen Ill already be in the next town. For these poor villagers, this is just the latest salvo in the gelato wars of Corniglia. Its Time to Get Comfortable with Technology, Spring 2022 Trip Report: What Its Like Traveling in Europe Right Now. At the end meet the driver again and set off to Corniglia. I love my work. When she saw me coming, she smiled with great satisfaction, stood up, and said warmly, OK, now its later. In addition to the territory of the towns of Cinque Terre (Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso al Mare), the Cinque Terre National Park encompasses parts of the communes of Levanto (Punta Mesco) and La Spezia (Campiglia Sunsets). 16038 Santa Margherita Ligure, Tel. Not the second one! But he wont let me finish. Services require either a mobile phone number or credit card for verification purposes and allow access for 24 hours. The ferry ride from Santa Margherita Ligure to Cinque Terre is one you will remember for years: the deep blue of the water, robin's egg sky, and slow parade of villages, ports and beaches tucked into the stunning coastline. Heres Why. The train from S.Margherita L.-Port to Corniglia takes 1h 24m including transfers and departs every four hours. Busy always, crowded in the summer, Cinque Terre retains a special, serene magic that makes it worth a visit any day of the year. I know where this is going. And back down. By the way, a note to my fellow shutterbugs: On this trip, Ive had a blast playing aroundwith the GoogleNIKCollection of photo editing software, which was recentlypurchased and made free to the public by Google. But on the Cinque Terre, that book feels like their pipeline to the world. This time, Im prepared. After lunch, return to your boat for a leisurely journey back to Portofino, perhaps ending the day with one more swim in the crystal clear waters of the Gulf of Tigullio. Ive written a lot on this tripabout the crowds in the Cinque Terre. What is the national COVID-19 helpline number in Cinque Terre? This itinerary permits in one day to: Have a touch of local culture; Avoid busy trains and possibly beat the crowd; Enjoy stunning views (from the sea, from up high, from inside the villages); Experience local wines and delicacies in a local restaurant. You should see it. His tone shifts from casual to severe, as his laser-beam eyes pierce mine. A bit puzzled, I left with a noncommittal grazie for the tip and headed into Corniglia. Until a few years ago, they were forgotten little backwaters in the shadow of Rapallo and Portofino. Whats to think about? During my afternoon hike from Vernazza to Corniglia, I had the trails mostly to myself. Some of these accommodations are easy enough to track down: The person who rents them works afternoons at the wine bar or the pizzeria, so you can just drop in and find them there. NOTICE: WEAR MASK ON BOARD ( 1 meter ) KEEP THE SAFE DISTANCE ON LAND AND ON BOARD THE BOAT. I bail out of the shop, as politely as possible, and try to ignore the now-furious restauranteur as he hangs his head, Charlie Brown-style, and theatrically sulks back to his own restaurant stomping his feet like a frustrated toddler. I Got COVID While Traveling. He showed me a photo of himself with Rick, and a cover shot of our book that he likes to put in the front window. Figure out alternative, crowd-free activities. E-mail administration:amministrazione@traghettiportofino.it, Copyright Consorzio Servizio Marittimo del Tigullio - P.IVA00182990994, Line 4: RAPALLO - SANTA MARGHERITA LIGURE - SUPER CINQUE TERRE (RIO MAGGIORE MONTEROSSO VERNAZZA) (all day), BOOKING IS REQUIRED CALL: Tel. In Cinque Terre, the best thing to do is to rent a room from one of the room providers, licensed or unlicensed, that abound in all five of the towns. I saw a tour guide at the door of the train, shouting to his group with exaggerated calm: Dont worry. The glorious trails of the national park are managed by career bureaucrats who are big on talk but slow on action. He forced several samples on me, and dished up a tipsy cone piled comically high with scoops of different flavors. The best one! (Mind you, he is as far as I know not the owner, nor in any way professionally involved in this gelateria. The tour is suitable for individuals and groups. Its awkward, sure. My life is ruined! In a town where everybody is everybodys cousin, it requires diplomatic acrobaticsto getthe latest gossip about which restaurant is going downhill and which new accommodations are overcharging. ', 'Should I book online before I travel? The busiest months are May, June, and September, while July and August are still quite busy. ), As I was leaving, Alberto pulled me in close. This is what Im wondering as I get the hard sell. But I have to admitI liked it. By law, they are professionals examined and licensed by the Province to accompany tourists during the visit of a certain area. Strictly Necessary Cookie should be enabled at all times so that we can save your preferences for cookie settings. He almost forced it on me anyway. I already did my Cinque Terre duty a few years ago. In an instant, the tone of our conversation has turned sour and confrontational. Reservation must be received by 5 p.m This is important.. At mid-day, the main coastal trail is a hot human traffic jam, as long columns of hikers attempt to pass each other on the steep and narrow steps. Rome2rio also offers online bookings for selected operators, making reservations easy and straightforward. Cheap fare from 6 to 12 years ( only for the round trip tickets ). The first one. But if youre in the area, or want to escape some of the crowds on a particularly busy day, theyre not a bad alternative. Flash forward a few years. Case made, the restauranteur tries to close the deal. Soyou will put this gelateria in your book?, Think about it! It turns out this lovely strip of coastline is a minefield ofallegiances and grudges that can only exist in a tiny town. Its cheaper than you might think: 30-50 depending on the destination (very affordable when split among three or four travelers). All day long, every time she contacted a B&B host to update their details, she was met with confusion, pointed questions, and evenarm-waving fury about the changes. In a big city like Rome or Munich, the Rick Steves book is, for some, a big deal but its not the only game in town, so people keep it in perspective. I hope I can return there soonon vacation. They are lying! Trenitalias Intercity (IC) trains are slower than the high-speed Frecce trains but are still a good way to travel between major cities and towns, with routes including Rome to Naples, Venice to Bologna and Milan to Genoa. But when Im wearing my guidebook research hat, I always breathe a tiny sigh of relief when I move on to my next destination. Its those serendipitous moments when things go awry. I was up at the very top of town more than a hundred steep stone steps above the harbor. Dont worry. Im getting crushed! And yet, everyone keeps telling me how catastrophic the crowds can be in peak season. Yes. Travel inspiration and top planning tips for getting around Italy. Saturday was a downpour, which kept all of the day-trippers at home. For next years guidebook, Ive assembled these new tips: Italys undiscovered slice of traffic-free Rivierahas been discovered. Wearing a face mask on public transport in Cinque Terre is mandatory. Filled with useful and timely travel information, the guides answer all the hard questions - such as 'How do I buy a ticket? After updating one B&B, I took a few steps and spotted the sign for another B&B that I needed to check. Departure is with a minimum of 20 passengers per boarding point. He even pulled out a little plastic container and offered to load it up with even more gelato for later. Free time for exploring the village on your own. Speaking of rough seas, I was in Manarola both in thundering surf whenthe swimming hole became a churning whirlpool, and monstrous waves swallowed up the breakwater and in eerily calm waters. Late in life, Aunt Mildred wrote a memoir about her experiences. (One great resource, clearly outlining a variety of excellent options for experienced and properly outfitted hikers, is www.sciacchetrail.com.) And the biggest problem seems to be groups whether day-trippers from Florence or other parts of central Italy, or cruises that bring thousands of tourists to La Spezia and Genoa. This is the smallest of the five villages, it always offers a very pleasant atmosphere together with stunning views from the esplanade overlooking the cliffs. Where Do Cruise Ships Dock at St. Martin? Of course, none of these towns is quite like the Cinque Terre. Moderate. Well, maybe later. She perked up at the word later and seemed satisfied to let me on my way. Let me be clear: Im not saying to avoid the Cinque Terre. You can also rent your own boat in Monterosso. Take the train from Sestri Levante to Corniglia, Take the train from S.Margherita L.-Port to Levanto, Take the train from S.Margherita L.-Port to Sestri Levante, Take a taxi from Santa Margherita Ligure to Cinque Terre, Drive from Santa Margherita Ligure to Cinque Terre. Before you go, he said, can you do me a very big favor? The wonder of Cinque Terre -- the Italian coastal region that includes the five small towns of Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore -- is both what it has and what it lacks. 2022 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | Terms of Service | Privacy Policy. For more information, please visit this page, The house of the Gallery owner Citra 011024-LT-0208, Cod. I will be the last one. Suddenly an elderly woman behind me started howling. Santa Margherita is particularly delightful in winter, when the weather is mild and the beaches uncrowded, or in spring for the merry Festa di Primavera, featuring fritters and beach bonfires. This view certainly beat the train station waiting roomand I didnt even mind having to rush to my train when I heardit pulling in. A park combo-ticket that includes boats! Because on both trips, I tasted both. The distance between Santa Margherita Ligure and Cinque Terre is 29 miles. One way ticket is valid until the first stop only. Cinque Terre was included as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. Rome2rio is a door-to-door travel information and booking engine, helping you get to and from any location in the world. Can I show you the room?.